The History of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700: The Birth of a Watchmaking Icon

The article we've prepared for you today covers a topic that's simply unmissable: the history of one of the most iconic models from one of the leading watchmaking brands. We've decided to dive in and offer you an article designed to evolve over time, as we gather more insights, focused on the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700 — originally in stainless steel and launched in 1976.

The 1970s were a time of bold creativity, shaking up the conventions of design. Long focused on complicated dress watches, the watchmaking world experienced a new wave of innovation, kicked off by Audemars Piguet in 1971 with the Royal Oak — a timepiece that remains one of the most iconic in the last 50 years of watchmaking.

Patek Philippe recognized the importance of innovation and introduced the Nautilus in 1976, potentially targeting a younger audience. The desire to break with tradition was clear—whether or not the move was directly inspired by Audemars Piguet, who had a slight head start...

Behind both of these legendary designs stood the same brilliant mind, with an unfailing sense of style: Gérald Genta.

Gérald Charles Genta was born on May 1st, 1931, in Geneva, to a Swiss mother and an Italian father. At the age of 20, he completed his studies in jewelry and goldsmithing, earning a diploma from the Swiss Federal School.

In 1969, he founded his own watch brand. This watchmaking house became known for its many innovative creations, particularly in the realm of grand complications — including the "Grande Sonnerie" and "Octo" models — as well as playful collaborations with Disney featuring characters like Mickey Mouse and Donald Duck.

Pictured above: the impressive reference G.0027.7 Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon (left), alongside reference G.0025.7, which combines minute repeater, perpetual calendar, power reserve, and tourbillon complications.

As an independent designer, Genta left his mark on watch design for numerous prestigious maisons, including Universal Genève, IWC, Bulgari, Audemars Piguet, and of course, Patek Philippe.

According to whispers in the industry, the Nautilus design may have first been offered to Audemars Piguet—who allegedly turned it down in favor of the Royal Oak...

A watchmaking manufacture renowned for its timepieces in precious metal cases, Patek Philippe broke the mold with this sports watch. Backed by what would turn out to be a stroke of marketing genius, the brand promoted a stainless steel watch displaying only hours, minutes, and the date… sold at the price of a complicated gold timepiece. At the time, it was a bold and visionary gamble.

The Nautilus reference 3700 is split into two sub-references, marked by a subtle evolution in bracelet width.

• /01 : Bracelet with 16mm links (1976 to 1982)
• /11 : Bracelet with 14mm links (1982 to 1990)

Among collectors, both versions have their dedicated fans. It’s commonly acknowledged that the "thin bracelet" version appears more refined or delicate — something that can be seen as a positive or a drawback, depending on individual taste.

There’s no real difference in how the two versions wear on the wrist. At most — and this is quite marginal — the thin bracelet may give a slightly lighter feel.

In the image below, you can see the 3700/1 reference with the thin bracelet on the left, and the 3700/11 with the wide bracelet on the right, as seen on the earliest models.

Let’s now take a closer look at the double-blade folding clasp. One notable detail is that the “Nautilus” engraving does not appear on the earliest production series — it only started to show up from late 1977 onwards.

It’s interesting to note that the clasp on the yellow gold versions is made of white gold (for added durability) and bears the logo of the renowned manufacturer Gay Frères, who also supplied brands like Audemars Piguet and Rolex.

A service clasp is easily recognizable by its double-folding “butterfly” style mechanism.

A key element in the evaluation and valuation of a collector’s watch, the dial plays a major role — and can sometimes explain significant price differences between two seemingly similar references. Its condition and its consistency with the watch’s production period are the two most important factors to consider.

Known for its deep blue color, achieved through successive layers of blue and black paint, it’s worth noting that the original certificates consistently refer to it as a “Black Dial.” This is important to mention, as the topic often comes up in conversations with our clients...

It was quite common to see deterioration of the dial’s lacquer during the early years of production, and the Geneva-based manufacture often replaced them—sometimes a bit too readily—usually free of charge. Today, meticulous collectors place great importance on finding models with dials that are period-correct for the watch. In general, dials that are contemporaneous with the case and movement tend to add more value.

One quick way to tell the difference: service dials do not feature the accent on “Genève” in the signature, making them easily identifiable at first glance.

The Sigma symbol, also known as “Aprior,” was introduced by the Swiss Watch Federation in the 1970s. Its purpose was to highlight the presence of precious metal on the dial—most often in the hour markers. The specific markings vary depending on the production period and can help determine whether a dial matches the watch’s production year, although this exercise remains tricky and somewhat controversial.

In general, dials produced between 1976 and 1980 feature the σ SWISS σ combination at 6 o’clock, while later versions display different combinations of “dot,” “sigma,” and “SWISS.”

As for the post-1980 versions, mstanga goes so far as to distinguish five different dial types. Below is an illustration of post-1980 dials showing two different compositions of “dot,” “sigma,” and “SWISS.”

One features the dot before the sigma, the other with the dot after the sigma.

Now highly sought after by collectors for their rarity, dials bearing the name of retailers such as Tiffany & Co (New York), Beyer (Zurich), or Gübelin (Lucerne) can command a significant premium.

This tradition, a mark of trust between the two houses, dates back to the 19th century and the era of pocket watches. At the time, the Geneva-based manufacture didn’t yet enjoy the fame it holds today, and local retailers were often better known than Patek Philippe itself — think, for instance, of its expansion into the South American market through Serpico y Laino.

It’s worth noting that, apart from special editions, Tiffany & Co. in New York is the only retailer still authorized to add its name to Patek Philippe dials today.

Some dial discolorations — known as “patina” — can add a unique charm and justify a significant premium. One example is a stunning Nautilus reference 3700 bearing a rare “Beyer” double signature, which we were fortunate enough to offer, complete with its warm tropical patina.

Just like certain collectors, this kind of fading is also appreciated by brand enthusiasts — Brad Pitt, for example, has often been spotted wearing a 3700 with a beautifully aged dial.

Originally developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1967 under the reference JLC 920, this automatic caliber is especially prized for its reliability, ultra-thin profile, and high level of finishing. Patek Philippe introduced it into its collections as early as 1970, notably through the Ellipse line with the rare reference 3589 — available at 41Watch Geneva.

The Patek Philippe 28-255 caliber can also be found in Vacheron Constantin watches under reference 1120, and in Audemars Piguet’s very first Royal Oak 5402 under reference 2120.

Unlike most watches, the Nautilus features a monobloc case with no serial number visible on the outside — and no removable caseback. To access the serial number, the bezel must be removed to open the watch.

Good to know for collectors: the last three digits of the case serial number are also stamped on the underside of the bezel, allowing you to verify that the two parts match. Be careful — this detail is not always highlighted during a sale!

Although the choice of presentation box could vary depending on the local retailer, the gold and steel version was most commonly sold in a gold Ellipse-shaped box.

The yellow gold Nautilus 3700 was most commonly seen in a wooden box, although the previously mentioned presentation boxes have also been observed.

Some examples have truly stood out in the auction world. Often unique in their configuration, we felt it would be useful to highlight a few particularly noteworthy sales. The goal here isn’t to fix prices in our readers’ minds, but rather to provide reference points and a basis for discussion.

From a more conceptual standpoint, the value of a Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700 depends largely—though always substantially—on factors such as production rarity and the overall integrity of its components, which ideally should all be matching. Another key factor is co-branding with a retailer, or special editions produced for states or under special orders.

This superb example of a 1979 Nautilus 3700/1 in steel, accompanied by its original box and papers and in like-new condition, sold for CHF 189,000 in 2020 at Phillips.

This stunning example of a yellow gold Nautilus reference 3700 featuring a double signature from Swiss retailer Gübelin changed hands for $302,400 at Phillips in New York in 2022.

On a more personal note, we've always found it particularly challenging to assess the impact of a double signature (Gübelin, Beyer, Tiffany, etc.), as it can sometimes command a significant premium—or, in other cases, sell for a price very close to that of a “standard” example.

A white gold Nautilus ref. 3700/1 featuring the Khanjar emblem—gifted by the Sultan of Oman—was sold for the equivalent of €990,000 by Phillips in Hong Kong in May 2024.

Only about ten examples with this double signature are known to exist, of which just two are in white gold.

In May 2013, Christie’s auctioned a Nautilus reference 3700-1P in platinum with a dial featuring diamond hour markers for the record sum of CHF 783,000.

Notably, this was the first time a platinum Nautilus 3700 appeared at auction — and it was a previously unknown example among collectors.

This particular Nautilus carries the reference 3700/031, linked to its gem-set bezel. This exceptional piece was sold for CHF 1,618,000 in November 2023 by Christie’s.

Another platinum example was sold for the record-breaking sum of CHF 2,540,500 by Phillips in Geneva in 2023.

Such a price difference can be explained by the extreme rarity of this model—especially bearing a double Gübelin signature on the dial—as well as a very different market dynamic around the Nautilus between 2013 and 2023.

It’s worth noting that other known platinum examples typically feature a gem-set bezel (ref. 3700-031) or diamond-set dial (ref. 3700-1P), which is not the case with this particular watch.

The Nautilus by Patek Philippe is a cornerstone of modern watchmaking. The models still in production today—such as references 5811 (white gold, three hands), 5726 (annual calendar), 5990 (travel time chronograph), 5712 (moonphase), 5980 (flyback chronograph), as well as the ladies' references 7110 and 7118—all carry the DNA and spirit of the original Nautilus 3700, with its instantly recognizable design.

The Nautilus 3700 firmly belongs in the pantheon of collectible icons.