10 Things People Get Wrong About Watches – Part 1/2

Between shortcuts and half-truths, watchmaking has its fair share of myths… and we’ve decided it’s time to set the record straight once and for all. Here’s the first part of our no-nonsense mythbusting guide.

One of the oldest debates we hear over and over again. Sure, mechanical watches have long been the proud standard-bearers of fine watchmaking—but let’s not forget that some of the most brilliant minds in the industry, like François-Paul Journe, have created groundbreaking quartz models. His Élégante, for example, features a revolutionary electro-mechanical movement with a motion detector and a 10+ year battery life. Pretty impressive.

More broadly, quartz watches are generally more affordable (at least from a movement standpoint) and, undeniably, more reliable. Even the finest maisons—think Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and others—have developed quartz pieces that meet their exacting standards.

You’ll often find quartz movements in women’s watches from high-end brands, where design and reliability are prioritized over mechanical complexity. And that’s no compromise—just a different kind of excellence.

This one always stirs up a storm—and honestly, we've heard it all. The truth? A watch’s original papers only certify its authenticity at the time it was sold.

When it comes to vintage pieces, those papers might “guarantee” authenticity at a specific moment in time, but they say nothing about parts that may have been changed over the years.

Of course, we understand the appeal of original papers. But they should never be the main reason for buying a watch.

Buy the seller, not just the watch. That’ll protect you far more than papers—which, by the way, can also be forged.

You’ll often see listings that mention “unpolished” or “never polished.” The idea is that an unpolished watch allows the buyer to judge the watch’s true condition. But first, you have to be able to actually tell whether the watch has never been polished—which isn’t always easy.

First things first: let’s not confuse polishing, which can remove a significant amount of material, with light refinishing, which simply restores shine to the metal. From there, it really comes down to personal preference. Some collectors like a watch “as found,” with all its original character. Others prefer one that looks close to perfect.

One thing’s for sure: whether it’s been polished or not, what really matters is the overall condition of the watch. That’s why professionals focus first on the state of the case (ideally thick and full, with no deep dents) and the bracelet (tight and not overly stretched).

Interestingly, some experts now offer services that restore the case by re-adding material and tightening stretched bracelets—bringing the watch back to a near-mint state. Once again, it’s a matter of taste, and the market hasn’t fully made up its mind on that practice.

Let’s first not confuse service parts, fitted after the watch left the factory, with aftermarket parts. Our advice? Steer clear of aftermarket components—they're nothing more than copies.

Of course, we all prefer a 100% original watch over one with service parts. But let’s not forget that some components are wear-and-tear parts, and replacing them is totally acceptable.

Generally speaking, when it comes to vintage Rolex watches, the dial is everything. We usually don’t recommend service dials—even though some collectors do enjoy them, especially when it means getting a beautiful watch at a more accessible price.

As for the other components, it’s really a matter of personal taste. On a four-digit Daytona, having pushers from a later generation isn’t exactly high treason… And when it comes to the bracelet—that’s very much a wear item. Once again, your best move is to get the opinion of a trusted professional. That’ll take you a lot further than obsessing over “100% or nothing”.

Really? The exact same one? I’m tempted to just stick to those two questions as my entire response… But hey, that wouldn’t be very helpful, would it?

Be very careful about the origin of the watch (some countries may involve export taxes), and pay close attention to the description (whether it comes with papers, a certificate, etc.).

And above all, focus on the details that truly matter: It’s hard to judge bracelet stretch from a distance. It’s hard to assess the level of polishing or the condition of the case from photos. And always watch out for aftermarket or service parts.

We’ve seen plenty of so-called “great deals” turn out to be anything but.