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10 Things People Get Wrong About Watches – Part 2/2
5 min read
After a first chapter where we set the record straight on a few deeply rooted watchmaking myths, we’re continuing our unfiltered exploration of the horological landscape.
Still driven by the same goal: separating fact from fantasy, instinct from approximation. Because behind polished marketing lines and ready-made certainties, watchmaking often hides a more nuanced — and sometimes more surprising — reality than one might expect.
Really? The same one? I'm tempted to leave my answer at just those two questions. No further comment...
But alright, let’s be a bit more helpful than that.
Pay close attention to where the watch is coming from (country of origin can mean export taxes), and make sure to carefully check the listing details (does it come with papers, certificate, etc.). Most importantly, focus on the subtle things that make all the difference: it’s hard to assess bracelet stretch from afar, hard to judge polishing (case condition), and you should be cautious with aftermarket or service parts.
We’ve seen plenty of so-called “great deals” that turned out not to be such great deals in the end. So, to sum it up: yes, good deals do exist — of course. But most of the time, prices tend to reflect the actual quality of the product.
The example below is just one among many — identical references with noticeably different price points.
Only if it’s fully charged and on your wrist!
An automatic watch has a power reserve (30 hours, 42 hours…) and doesn’t need to be wound as long as it stays within that reserve — even if it’s not being worn. But once the reserve runs out, it needs to be wound manually, just like a hand-wound mechanical watch.
Also, be careful with watches that “start ticking” again after just a couple of wrist movements — just because the seconds hand moves doesn’t mean the watch is properly charged.
You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation
— Patek Philippe slogan in 1996
Patek Philippe is one of the most prestigious watch brands, with a history deeply intertwined with that of watchmaking itself. Some of its models — like the Nautilus, the Aquanaut, the Ellipse, or the (very) high-complication pieces — are icons forever etched into the history of collectible timepieces.
Patek Philippe has a reputation for producing particularly expensive watches, often worn by a very established clientele. Just think of the brand’s legendary slogan: “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.”
Fun fact: that family-owned brand motto has remained unchanged since 1996.
This brilliant slogan, still going strong after nearly 30 years, helped shape the image of a very specific clientele — a well-rooted, generational one. That said, beyond the cliché (which isn’t entirely false), the brand has also managed to attract a younger and more high-profile crowd over time.
From a professional standpoint, what remains is this: Patek Philippe is one of the finest names in watchmaking, known for exceptional quality — from their highly complicated pieces to more sporty models. And yes, the prices match that level of excellence.
A broad topic — and one that needs to be approached with real caution.
While it’s true that professional dive watches are designed for underwater use, many so-called “water-resistant” watches are not meant to spend much time in the water — especially not in contact with saltwater or products like detergent, shampoo, and the like.
Remember that a watch movement contains many parts that wear over time, and that water-resistance seals (gaskets) in particular can degrade. We strongly advise against wearing a “water-resistant” watch to the beach unless it’s been recently serviced and pressure-tested.
As for vintage or collectible pieces, we’re even more cautious — replacement parts can be extremely hard to find. Frankly, it’s just not worth the risk.
Absolutely false! Some watches over 50 years old are still perfectly reliable.
In fact, simpler movements are often the most resistant to the wear and tear of time. There’s a reason people often say Rolex watches are like tractors — and it’s true! Rolex isn’t the only reliable brand, of course, but there’s no reason to assume a 20-year-old watch is inherently less reliable than a brand-new one.
As a general rule, the more complications a watch has, the more things can go wrong. And servicing or regulating highly complicated watches can get very expensive.
Well... not necessarily! What really drives the price of a watch is the complexity of its movement and how rare the piece is. While the material does play a role, let’s not forget that the most expensive watch ever sold at auction — Paul Newman’s own Rolex Daytona (a relatively simple chronograph in steel) — went for $17 million.
That said, all else being equal — same production run, same model — a gold, platinum, or gem-set version will usually be worth more than a stainless steel or titanium one.
Fun fact: when Patek launched the Nautilus, the whole campaign was built around the idea of a luxury watch in steel priced like a gold one… Case in point.