Designed by Gérald Genta, the Nautilus is part of the “Holy Trinity” of so-called sport-chic watches (the Nautilus by Patek Philippe, the Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet, and the Overseas by Vacheron Constantin).
Produced from 1981 to 2006, reference 3800 is now enjoying renewed interest from collectors for several reasons: the comeback of more wearable mid-size diameters, the Nautilus’ 50th anniversary, and price levels that remain more accessible than those of reference 3700.
Introduced in 1981, five years after the “Jumbo” reference 3700, reference 3800 responded to market demand for more restrained case sizes, particularly in Japan. While this model is now considered unisex, it was originally a men’s watch.
With a diameter of 37.5 mm—standard for the 1980s—the very first Nautilus, reference 3700, known as the “Jumbo,” stood apart from market trends with its generous 42 mm case.
The 3800 and its variations in precious metals
Unlike the 3700, which was produced mainly in steel, the Nautilus 3800 stands out for its wide variety of materials, offering collectors a much broader range of options.
Steel remains the version most faithful to the original sport-chic spirit, while gold variations (yellow, white, or rose) bring a more refined dimension. Some versions, such as rose gold or platinum—produced in extremely limited quantities—are now among the most sought-after.
This richness of variations directly contributes to the growing interest in reference 3800 on the collectors’ market.
Production can be estimated as follows:
The different date displays of the 3800
One of the first elements visible directly on the dial—and one that can help distinguish early series from later ones—is the date disc. We won’t venture to give a precise transition year, as there is no official literature on the subject and both types may have coexisted. Collectors generally agree, however, that earlier series more often feature a black date disc.
It is worth noting that there are two types of black date discs:
- A first, with bold numerals
- A second, with thinner numerals and a pronounced serif
Some collectors favor the discretion of the rarer black date disc, which offers a more “tone-on-tone” and harmonious look, while others prefer the contrast provided by the white date disc. We don’t personally take a firm stance on this question, considering it above all a matter of aesthetics rather than a factor in the watch’s value.
The bracelets and clasps of the 3800
Early series feature a double-blade clasp, similar to the one found on the Nautilus ref. 3700, known as the “Jumbo.” This was a classic clasp for the 1970s, also used by many other manufacturers such as Audemars Piguet with the Royal Oak Jumbo reference 5402, and Rolex with its Oyster bracelet range.
An interesting detail to note: the clasp is made of white gold on yellow gold Nautilus models—an alloy that provides greater rigidity. The folding clasp also evolves over time into a more flared design.
Circa 1998, a double-fold clasp was introduced alongside the Nautilus ref. 3710 with a power reserve indicator. This version offers improved comfort and reliability.
The case finishing of the 3800
Like the Nautilus Jumbo reference 3700, the Nautilus 3800 features a solid caseback, which does not allow the in-house movement to be viewed. The case serial number is stamped on the inside of the caseback (not visible).
Another point of interest: the case is slightly thicker than that of the Nautilus 3700. This is due to the use of a different movement, as well as the addition of a complication with the seconds hand.
The movement of the Nautilus 3800
A historically important reference, the Nautilus 3800 represents the second execution of the model fitted with an automatic movement. Unlike the Jumbo ref. 3700, powered by a movement supplied by Jaeger-LeCoultre, it marks the introduction of an in-house automatic movement at Patek Philippe, with the debut of the 335 SC.
The Nautilus 3800 can be divided into four generations, each powered by a different caliber.
Exclusive versions and double-signed pieces
Some examples bearing a retailer’s name on the dial have been observed and command a premium due to their rarity. It is worth noting that this tradition gradually disappeared in the early 2000s. The 3800 reference is therefore one of the last Nautilus references to feature this prestigious marking on its dial.
More rarely, a few unique pieces or specific modifications can also be observed.
The Nautilus 3800 modified by George Daniels
The Science Museum London houses one of the best-kept secrets: a unique Nautilus 3800. The movement of this 3800 was modified to incorporate a co-axial escapement by George Daniels in 1981, at the request of Patek Philippe. It was fitted with a case and dial in Switzerland, then returned to him in 1982. He wore it continuously for ten years, during which time the escapement functioned perfectly without requiring any intervention. It is the oldest existing watch with a co-axial escapement.
The “Tiffany & Co.” double signature
Tiffany & Co., the renowned New York retailer, remains one of the most desirable names among double-signed dials sought after by collectors, and today the only one still authorized to perpetuate this tradition.
The Gubelin double signature
Founded in Lucerne in 1854, Gubelin remains one of the oldest authorized retailers of Patek Philippe.
The Beyer double signature
Founded in 1760, Beyer Chronometrie is one of the oldest retailers in the industry, based in Zurich. It is worth noting that this retailer was acquired by Patek Philippe in 2026.
The Asprey double signature
Without a doubt the rarest double signature, this example—sold for the equivalent of €127,000 by Phillips in Geneva in 2022—is one of the very few known pieces bearing the name of the renowned London retailer Asprey.
A Nautilus just as desirable as its predecessor
Despite its automatic movement and a restrained 36 mm diameter, the Nautilus ref. 3800 features a case thickness of 7.65 mm. The watch slips perfectly under a shirt cuff.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800 is not the lesser sibling of the 3700—it is an extremely compelling watch thanks to its rarity, balanced design, and versatile size. At 41Watch, we appreciate all its variations (steel, steel and gold, gold, etc.), as well as the wide range of dials and gem-set versions that exist, offering a richer catalogue than the 3700.
We also welcome the fact that prices remain relatively reasonable for such a legendary watch.
