Buying your first Rolex always comes with its fair share of questions. Here are a few answers to guide you…
For almost ten years now, the 41Watch team has been guiding its clients in the purchase of their watches — and regularly, in the purchase of their very first Rolex.
Drawing on this experience, it felt relevant to bring together in one article all the questions that come up again and again, but more importantly the answers we can provide, to help you prepare for this moment.
Mathieu, our Head of Sales, answers all the questions you might ask yourself before taking the leap!
Which Rolex should I choose?
When you’re setting aside a significant budget, it’s perfectly normal to start by looking at all the options available. Once the brand is chosen, the next step is picking the right model. With Rolex, we generally recommend starting by deciding whether you want a ‘sport’ model or a more ‘dressy’ one — before narrowing things down to a specific collection.
To do that, you can visit us in-store or simply browse our website. We’ve also put together several buying guides that can help you get a clearer picture before talking with our team, who will help you finalize your selection.
We work closely with an independent expert who verifies the authenticity of every component of each watch.
— Mathieu, manager of the 41Watch Shop
Is the watch authentic? Is it a real Rolex?
Every watch we offer systematically goes through our workshop for a full inspection. Our watchmakers first examine the overall condition and exterior appearance before opening the watch using approved tools. They then inspect the movement and, if necessary, perform a service.
All watches sold by 41Watch come with a 1-year warranty, while most modern, very recent, or new pieces still benefit from their international manufacturer’s warranty. This period ranges from 2 to 8 years, and is 5 years for Rolex.
For older watches, especially those dating from before 2000, we work closely with an independent expert who verifies the authenticity of every component of each watch.
Fabrice Guéroux, known for his work on counterfeit timepieces, is the author of several books and works closely with the French customs authorities.
Is my Rolex waterproof?
Even though the brand’s history is closely tied to the pursuit of water resistance, how waterproof your Rolex is will depend on the model you’ve chosen — and on its age as well.
Depending on the collection the watch belongs to, its water resistance can range from 100m to over 11,000m! For the ‘classic’ collections, such as the Datejust or Day-Date, their 100-meter rating allows for occasional surface swimming and worry-free everyday use. The same applies to most of the so-called ‘professional’ models like the GMT-Master or the Daytona.
When it comes to professional diving watches, like the Submariner or the Sea-Dweller (equipped with a helium escape valve), their water resistance ranges from 300 meters to over 3,900 meters! The new Deepsea Challenge even boasts a record-breaking 11,000-meter rating.
As you can see, modern Rolex watches truly are waterproof, allowing for recreational water use on some models, and full-on professional use on those specifically designed for it.
However, the age of a watch is a factor that absolutely shouldn’t be overlooked on this topic. Over time, even a true ‘diver’ can see its performance decline for various reasons: drying of the gaskets, repeated abrasive polishing, chipped crystals… As a general rule, we do not recommend that our clients dive with their watch, especially when the model dates from before 2000 — even though we systematically check their water resistance.
It’s also worth noting that, to this day, no brand is able to offer a warranty on the water resistance of their watches, as it’s nearly impossible for a watchmaker to determine whether water inside a watch is due to a manufacturing defect or user mishandling.
Are all the parts original?
We pay particular attention to the full inspection of our watches. We follow a strict process that allows us to list, step by step, every point that needs to be checked. It’s important to understand that some components hold significant value, and replacing them can greatly impact the value of your watch — notably the dial, the hands, the bezel, or even the case. Replacing other so-called ‘service parts’, however, does not affect the valuation of the piece: water-resistance gaskets, movement components, crown stems…
Some elements may also be ‘matching’; meaning they correspond to the correct production period of the watch without necessarily being the parts originally fitted — the bracelet, for instance. This can be compared to replacing the tires on a vintage car with an identical reference: the impact on price is only noticeable in rare cases.
The key thing to remember is that it’s essential to know exactly what you’re buying. At 41Watch, we make transparency a priority with our clients, and the buyer of a watch is always informed of the specifications and characteristics of the piece they’re interested in. For Vintage watches, we’ve also created, together with Fabrice, dedicated expertise booklets that detail each component of the watch and indicate what has or hasn’t been replaced.
A 727 Valjoux caliber that can be found on first generation of Rolex Daytona
Has it ever been polished? Does it affect the value?
Over the past few years, we’ve been hearing these questions more and more — especially the concern that a polished watch might lose value.
Polishing is a workshop technique used to remove most scratches and dings on jewelry and watches. To do this, a watchmaker may use different machines and methods, most of which involve lightly removing material to erase imperfections and restore a like-new appearance.
Because polishing requires genuine craftsmanship, it’s important to distinguish between a well-executed job and a poorly done one. When the operation is carried out perfectly, it has no negative effect on the value of the watch — on the contrary, it brings back its beauty and the shine of a new piece.
Like all good things, it just shouldn’t be overdone: repeated, heavy polishing over time can alter the watch’s original proportions.
This technique isn’t always necessary, and we may instead perform a simple non-abrasive ‘refinishing’, which doesn’t remove material and gently softens the light wear marks on a recent watch in excellent condition.
The most important question to ask yourself is whether the watch truly appeals to its future wearer. For this kind of purchase, we’ll always recommend listening to your heart before your head.
To stay a bit more down-to-earth, buying a Rolex is indeed an interesting ‘financial investment’, as their prices tend to keep rising over time. The brand usually announces one or two increases to their retail prices each year, either in response to rising raw material costs or simply to support their strategic positioning.
The pre-owned market follows the same logic, with the added impact of the gradual scarcity of well-preserved and fully original watches as the years go by.
Another key point is the strong liquidity of these watches, in a market where Rolex remains the most sought-after brand — far ahead of all other players.
So, in most cases, buying a Rolex is a very solid investment, especially when you compare it to the minimal returns of savings accounts in a context of rising inflation.
Never hesitate to ask questions!
While this list covers most of the questions we hear regularly, we’re often asked all sorts of other ones — and there’s no such thing as a ‘bad’ or irrelevant question.
Whatever questions you may have as part of your purchase, our team is here for you — by phone, by email, or of course in-store. We look forward to helping you with this great purchase; one thing is certain: you won’t regret it!
